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Nielsen wood frames

Nielsen Wood Frame Kit - as purchased
Recently, I had 2 works on paper and a painting accepted into an exhibition "In the Shadows of the Mind" at Monkitree Gallery in Gardiner, ME (opening is this Friday, Sept 16th at 5:30pm).  I am beyond excited because these works on paper have never been exhibited in a gallery before and I can't wait to see how they are received.

But I was also very excited and a bit intimidated to venture into the world of framing.  I've framed before but I wanted to find an affordable frame that was easy to assemble and to exactly the right size.  I instantly thought of Nielsen frame kits, you know, the metal frames that many photographers use.  I love their simplicity but I don't like the coldness of the metal next to my paintings or drawings.  So I searched, and searched, and searched.  Nothing was affordable and nothing was exactly the right size.  These particular pieces are 15" square which is a little awkward for store-bought frames.  Then I came across something I was unfamiliar with, Nielsen's wood frame kits!  Exactly the warmth that I wanted, easy to assemble, and from a name that I trust.  They come in 3 colors: black, mahogany, or natural pine.

You purchase the kits by the interior size that you need-- each kit is a set of two sides so you will need to buy two kits per frame that you are looking to make.  In my case, I purchased 2 sets of 15" kits per frame.  (If you want an 8x10" frame you'd buy one kit that's 8" and one that's 10")

how the sides assemble
Each kit comes with two H shaped plastic pins that you insert into each mitered corner after putting a small amount of wood glue onto the mitered edges.  I found this fairly simple to do, out of the two frames that I made, one had a corner that didn't exactly match up but with a little finagling it was hardly noticeable.  The pins can be pushed in about half way by hand and then the rest of the way with light hammering of a mallet.

Blogger won't upload this in the correct direction.  What jerks.
So the only other things you'll need are: 1) glass cut to size; don't go by the size of the frame, there will be a fraction of an inch extra on each and I recommend assembling the frames and then measuring the size of glass that you'll need.  Most hardware stores will cut glass for you.  2) mat board; even if you are not showing the mat, you may want to still put it in there for support.  I recommend acid-free.  3) backing board; this will be visible from the back.  I used a thick black acid free mat board that went in after my mat board.  4) glazier points; again, available at the hardware store.  I got the ones that you can see above- they are shaped like a pointy heart and a raised edge on the metal, this makes it easy to push in the point with a flat head screwdriver.  5) d-rings or strap hangers with screws to tie the next item to 6) framing wire.

a full view of the back - I glued my business card to the back of the mounting board and wrote my title on it

finished products
And here are the finished products! The black frames did need to be touched up on the edges because you could see the natural color of the wood at each miter point.  Not too bad and easy to correct with a touch up pen.  I placed another order and am waiting for the natural pine frames, I think that'll look even better and not have the need to be touched up.  I'll report back!

Some additional specs:  The 1-1/8" rabbet accepts stretched canvas or matted or mounted art. Has a 3/4" face and 1-1/2" side depth.  Sits very nicely on a wall!

Where can you find the best price on these frames-- glad you asked because I found that out, too.  Jerry's Artarama had the best price I could find.

If you wind up using these or have used them in the past, let me know!  I'd like to know what you think of them.  I still don't love framing but this is inexpensive and relatively easy.

How to prep with Oil Ground

I've been working on cradled wood panels lately and thought I'd share some quick & dirty instructions on how to prep a board with oil ground. First step is taping off your edges with a thick painter's or drafting tape. I like having the natural wood as my clean edge, you can choose to prep and paint your edges, if you wish, but I like the look and feel of a crisp clean edge. Any excess tape I just fold around the back of the panel since you're just going to take this off when you're done painting anyway. Be sure that the tape edge facing the front of the panel matches up to the edge and that you press it down hard. I've learned the hard way-- don't settle for cheap tape!! It either won't stick and you'll have paint seeping through everywhere or it'll stick too much and literally pull pieces of your wood off...I never thought that was a possibility but it is!



Above is a look at my panels all taped up.

I like using Gamblin Oil Painting Ground (they have a pretty cool video there and tons of technical info if you want to read further). Now, don't get confused... oil ground is very different from gesso. Gesso that is commonly used today is an acrylic base; oil ground is linseed oil based. Acrylic gesso is good, quick, and pretty nice but oil ground trumps it for me because oil ground has a luminosity that really shows through your paint. Since I'm painting in fairly thin layers, I want a ground that will showcase the colors that I've mixed. Oil ground also requires less application of layers and less material so don't be fooled by the price when compared to gesso. If you're prepping on canvas or linen you'll need to size the material, first, with PVA or your choice of sizing. Since I'm painting on wood, there is no need to size.
The only materials that you really need for this job is your painting surface, oil ground, latex gloves, a stick of some sort (I use an old pencil), and an old credit card or gift card. I emphasize old because you're not getting it back from the oil Gods. "Why a credit card," you say? Do you think I'm not going to explain, I will, I will. Oh, and open a window, damn it! This is oil based so you need to properly ventilate your studio.
So put on your gloves and take that pencil/stick and dunk it into the pot of oil ground and then drizzle it all over your surface. It's ok if you put too much on, you can always scrape it off and put it back in the pot during the next step, which is my favorite step.
Take the old credit card and use that to scrape the paint really thinly over the entire surface. A new painting tool!! How cool is that? Be sure to keep the bottom of the card clean in between swipes once it gets a little cakey-- just wipe it off on a towel. A credit card or an old gift card or an old forgotten to be returned hotel room keycard (I swear I thought I returned it) work great because you can put even pressure on it, it's flexible, and you don't have to pay for it! You can also use a roller or a flat sponge brush or something but I really love using the cards for a smooth finish.


Keep doing this until your entire surface is covered with oil ground in a very thin coat. You'll be amazed at how little you use. Let dry for about a day and then put on a second coat in the same way. You can sand with a super fine sandpaper and dust between coats if you'd like a very smooth surface. Let your second coat dry for at least 2-3 days; remember, this is oil paint so it will take some time to completely dry. Then you're ready to paint!

Once your painting is complete, simply remove the taped edges pulling the tape towards the front of the painting.

An extra optional step: If you like having a color to your ground, you can mix any dry painter's pigment into the ground first! Customize the color ground you want to use.

And a word of advice: to keep your can of ground lasting a long time, cut a piece of wax paper to the width of the can and place it on the top of the oil. That'll keep the air in the can from drying it out. Then seal it tightly. This also works for home paint and is a tip I probably learned from This Old House. (If it's latex or acrylic paint, then use a piece of plastic wrap to do the same trick.) I am all about saving you money.

Let me know if you have any questions!



Hot Mess: Painting with Wax, an intro to encaustic painting tutorial























JUST RELEASED!
Hot Mess: Painting with Wax,  an introduction to encaustic painting PDF Tutorial 

-Want to learn encaustic painting but don't know a darned thing about it? 
-Maybe you're wanting to learn more before diving in and buying supplies? 
-Or perhaps you just love learning?

Then this is the tutorial for you! Learn everything you need to know about painting with beeswax! From set-up to clean-up. It couldn't be easier.

This
6 page tutorial is written in a joyful voice that is very easy to understand with clear photographs showing you every step of the process. Includes a handy supply list with detailed information and tips on where to find the items inexpensively! This intro will walk you through buying supplies, setting up, basic encaustic painting, fusing, embedding objects, clean up, caring for your paintings, and a list of supply resources.

**What's encaustic painting?** Encaustic painting is the use of beeswax and damar resin melted together and combined with dry pigments to create a painting medium. This paint is applied hot (not a cold paste) and manipulated with a direct heat source. This makes for a lovely layered image into which objects and photographs can be added. If you've seen a Jasper Johns painting then you've seen an encaustic painting!

I am always available & happy to answer any questions that you have about painting!


Find this and forthcoming tutorials in my Etsy Shop: JamieRibisi.etsy.com

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